After the successes of the many stunning interpretations of Albana, the floral Pagadebit from Bombino Bianco, and the sweet Cagnina, Romagna’s version of Terrano, the prestigious list of Romagna’s native DOC wines has expanded with two newcomers (though far from new in origin): Centesimino and Famoso, now officially labeled as Romagna Centesimino Oriolo DOC and Romagna Famoso Mercato Saraceno DOC, respectively.
Centesimino: a story of resilience
The History
Though cultivated on Faenza’s hills since the 17th century, Centesimino’s revival began in the 1940s. It was rediscovered in the garden of a noble residence in Faenza by Pietro Pianori. The protective courtyard walls likely shielded the vine from the devastating phylloxera epidemic, which ravaged most Italian vineyards.
Pianori propagated the vine by grafting it onto new rootstocks at his Terbato estate near Oriolo dei Fichi’s iconic tower. Over time, the grape—locally nicknamed after Pianori as "Centesimino" (from his affectionate moniker Zantesmen, referencing his legendary frugality)—spread across the region. Historically known as Savignôn Rosso, the grape is prized for its distinctive aromatic profile.
The Characteristics
Registered in Italy’s National Variety Registry in 2004, Centesimino vines produce medium-sized leaves and clusters, with moderately sized berries and soft skins. While primarily grown near Oriolo, the grape is also cultivated in parts of Ravenna and Forlì’s hills.
Centesimino’s unique character is showcased in various styles: sparkling Charmat rosé, still rosé, still red, red reserve, and sweet passito. It boasts a floral bouquet with spicy undertones, making it a versatile wine.
Famoso: famous yet nearly forgotten
The History
An aromatic white grape of delicate and intriguing character, Famoso first appeared under its Ravenna nickname, Rambela, in 1437 in Lugo di Romagna’s tax tables. It was valued as a table grape sold fresh in marketplaces. However, its aromatic nature and the devastation of phylloxera led to its decline.
The grape re-emerged in the late 20th century in vineyards around Montesasso Church in Mercato Saraceno, nestled among Cesena’s hills. Thanks to forward-thinking producers, Famoso has since been cultivated with excellent results, both in hilly terrains and lowland areas.
The Characteristics
Famoso is predominantly grown in Cesena, Bertinoro, Faenza, Brisighella, and Bagnacavallo. This resilient variety thrives in challenging soils and withstands harsh winter conditions.
Vinified as both still and sparkling wine, Famoso offers a distinct aromatic profile, with sweet floral, fruity, exotic, and dried fruit notes. It is pleasant, smooth, and elegant, making it an excellent pairing for seafood and an unexpected match for many spicy dishes of Southeast Asian cuisine—it’s particularly delightful with pad thai!