Romagna has always been a cradle of culture,
creativity, and passion – home to Fellini, Pascoli, the Motor Valley, and
traditional dance, among much else.
But not everyone knows that Romagna was also
the birthplace of one of the most influential figures in Italian gastronomy. Pellegrino
Artusi, a businessman, writer, and gastronome, became the voice of Italian
cuisine and a symbol of Romagna’s culinary pride. Born in Forlimpopoli on
August 4, 1820, he spent the first 30 years of his life in Romagna.
The son of a local grocer, Artusi initially
studied at the Bertinoro Seminary and later pursued literary studies at the
University of Bologna before joining the family business. A dramatic event
marked a turning point in his life: on January 25, 1851, during a raid by the
bandit Stefano Pelloni, known in Romagna as "the Passatore," the
Artusi home was looted. The financial losses and trauma, particularly affecting
one of Pellegrino’s sisters, forced the family to leave Romagna and relocate to
Florence. There, Pellegrino established a discount bank and successfully
engaged in commerce until 1865, when he could finally focus on his true
passions – literature and gastronomy.
"Science in the Kitchen and the Art of
Eating Well"
In the comfort of his home in Florence’s Piazza
d'Azeglio, Artusi explored the art of good eating, thanks largely to his two
loyal staff members: the Tuscan cook Marietta Sabatini and the butler from
Romagna Francesco Ruffilli, who assisted him with his culinary experiments. It
was in this stimulating environment that, in 1891, he produced what is still
one of the greatest works in Italian cuisine: “Science in the Kitchen and
the Art of Eating Well”.
More than just a cookbook, “Science in the
Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well” is a treasure trove of gastronomic
culture, unifying Italian culinary traditions during a time when Italy was
still a young nation in the process of unifying.
It was a community effort in every sense: the
recipes in the book were the result of extensive correspondence with people
across Italy. Artusi had a network of nearly two thousand correspondents,
mostly women, who shared their recipes, tips, and culinary secrets with him – a
kind of early community that fostered a strong sense of participation
and contributed to a living collection of Italian culinary knowledge, as
evidenced by the more than 15 editions of the book.
The Legacy of Romagna – the Food, the Wine
Even though deeply rooted in Florence, Artusi
maintained a strong connection to his homeland and its specialties:
piadina, tagliatelle, cappelletti, and, of course, wine.
Though he had clear views on healthy living,
particularly regarding moderation in drinking, Artusi enjoyed a good glass of
wine: “Some health experts suggest drinking water with meals and saving wine
for the end. Do it if you dare; to me, it seems too much to ask”. He had specific preferences and was especially
fond of wines from the Romagna hills, which he regularly had sent to him from
Bertinoro, near his native Forlimpopoli.
A symbol of conviviality, food culture, and
sharing that continues to define the people of Romagna, Pellegrino Artusi
remains a true icon of Romagna pride – and we proudly carry on his legacy.